Crème Vichyssoise Glacé

In 1910, when the roof garden was opened at the Ritz-Carlton on 46th Street and Madison Avenue, chef Louis Diat celebrated by presenting Manhattan society with a new soup. It was one his mother had made - the traditional hot leek-and-potato peasant soup of France, cooled with rich, sweet milk. It was refined by le maître, named Vichyssoise after the fashionable French watering spot, Vichy, and was served for the first time to Charles Schwab, the steel magnate.

4 leeks

1 onion, sliced

1 ounce butter

6 medium potatoes, sliced

1 ½ pints chicken broth or water or combination of both

1 dessertspoon salt

2 cups milk

1 cup single cream

1 cup double cream

Chives, chopped fine

Wash leeks very carefully and discard green stalks. Slice the white part, combine with onion, and cook in melted butter until limp but not brown. Add potato slices, chicken broth, and salt. Bring to the boil and boil 35 minutes. Rub through a fine strainer or purée in an electric blender, return to heat, and add milk and single cream. Season to taste and bring to the boil. Do not cook further. Finally, add the double cream and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator. Serve in cups with a sprinkling of finely chopped chives on top. Serves 8.